Ask any captain or dive guide on St. John for the best snorkel on the island and the answer is almost always Waterlemon Cay. It's a small, round island a couple hundred yards off the north shore that sits in the middle of one of the healthiest coral reefs left in the USVI. Getting there takes some effort — which is exactly why it stays good.
Getting to the trailhead
Waterlemon sits at the far east end of North Shore Road, past Maho and Cinnamon Bays, at the Annaberg / Leinster Bay parking area. From Cruz Bay it's a 25-minute drive; from Sunset Villa it's about 20. The lot is unpaved and small; arrive before 10am or after 2pm for a spot.
The trail
From the lot the trail is flat, shaded for much of the way, and runs along the inside of Leinster Bay. It's 0.8 miles one way — a 20-minute walk for most people. You'll pass the ruins of the Annaberg sugar mill on a brief detour worth taking; the windmill is the most intact in the Caribbean and the views back across to Tortola are excellent.
The swim out and the snorkel
At the end of the trail the path opens onto a cobble beach opposite the cay. Walk left along the beach until the cay is at its closest — maybe 200 yards out — then put your fins on and go. The bottom drops quickly into seagrass and you'll usually have company (a turtle, a stingray) before you even reach the cay.
Snorkel counter-clockwise around the cay. The front (south) side has the densest coral, the east side has the cleanup-station action where parrotfish and angelfish queue up, and the back (north) side has the dramatic dropoff and the larger pelagics. Finish on the west side with the current pushing you back toward the mainland.
Reading the conditions
Waterlemon is exposed; check the marine forecast before you commit. Calm seas + light easterly wind = perfect. Anything over 20 knots from the east and the back side gets washing-machine chop, so loop the front only. The current generally runs east-to-west; if you're struggling to make progress, you're going the wrong way.
What to bring
- Your own snorkel gear — there are no rentals at the trailhead
- A small dry bag tied to a float or trailed behind you
- Water and a snack for the trail
- A long-sleeve rash guard (the swim out is fully exposed)
- Reef-safe mineral sunscreen, applied 20 minutes before getting in
If you only do one snorkel on St. John, do this one — and read our full St. John snorkeling guide for the runners-up.
Part of the The Beaches of St. John, USVI: A Complete Guide.
Frequently asked
›How do you get to Waterlemon Cay?
Drive to the Leinster Bay (Annaberg) trailhead on the far east end of North Shore Road. From the parking area it's a flat 0.8-mile coastal walk to the beach opposite the cay, then a short swim. The walk takes about 20 minutes one way.
›Can you walk to Waterlemon Cay or do you have to swim?
You walk the trail to the closest point on the mainland beach, then swim about 200 yards to the cay. The swim is what makes it Waterlemon — don't skip it. If you're not confident swimming that far, snorkel along the mainland shore where the coral starts.
›Is the current at Waterlemon Cay strong?
It can be. The channel between the mainland and the cay sees tidal flow, and the back (north) side of the cay is more exposed. Snorkel counter-clockwise around the cay so you finish with the current behind you, and avoid days with strong easterly trades.
›What will I see?
Waterlemon is consistently the best-rated snorkel on St. John. Sea turtles, southern stingrays, spotted eagle rays, large schools of blue tang, queen angelfish, and the occasional reef shark on the back side. Visibility regularly exceeds 60 feet.
Keep reading
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